HAIRY HAIRY, QUITE CONTRARY

ALTHOUGH I'D BEEN INVITED MANY TIMES to try them in the past, for one reason or another, I had never actually, so it was with alacrity that I accepted Equatorial Penang's invitation to try their newest dish, something that is only available seasonally: HAIRY CRABS.

They are so-called because of the mass of dark hair which grow on their claws, are air-flown in from the Yangzhi River delta near Shanghai. The official season opens in late September, and Eq's Golden Phoenix Chinese Restaurant is one of the few places in Penang where you can find them now, available lunch or dinner. However, they only have a limited number, which is rapidly reducing as more and more folks find out about them.

The experience was quite an eye-opener: for some reason, I'd stupidly assumed that eating one crab is the same as eating another, hairy or not - fried, baked, cooked in ginger and chilli, black pepper sauce etc etc ... but believe me - it isn't!

For one thing you're not supposed to drink Chinese tea with them as the chemical reaction between the two will cause quite severe stomach upsets - one drinks sweetened ginger tea or wine with it. Neither are you supposed to eat persimmons. Something to do with the ying and yang/cooling and heatiness principles - the crabs are "cooling" so the ginger tea or wine "heats" you up again!

Secondly, they are only ever steamed for 15-20 mins, which ensures the yellowish "jin" (roe) inside is still quite soft and runny so you can suck it (literally); whatever remaining flesh there is - and there's actually not much - is extracted and dipped in a vinegar and ginger sauce. It was an educational experience and a half, and I really learnt a lot that night.

At the Eq you can select it live from the tank, and it is presented to you 20 mins later, steamed, and if you wish prepared by Danny who valiantly dons plastic gloves as he prepares to do battle with the cooked crustaceans.

Verdict: the roe is eggy, as one would expect, and the flesh, because they are freshwater creatures, is unsalty so the ginger and vinegar combo makes a good companion. It is definitely something I am glad I've tried. But if you're planning to, at RM86++ per piece, it's something to be really savoured!

The Golden Phoenix also offers quite a good selection of other Chinese dishes, and very tasty ones at that, including some fantastic pork-free Dim Sum so if you're that side of town do definitely pay it a visit.

GREAT SPREAD @ The Equatorial Coffee House, Penang

Last night we went out as a family for a change, to try the Buka Puasa Ramadhan Buffet at the Equatorial Hotel. Although it's a bit far out for us, as we live on the other side of the island, I really feel it's worth the drive out to Bukit Jambul.

Firstly the view alone is worth it; you can choose to eat outside on the terrace which overlooks the lovely pool and grounds, or inside the air-conditioned dining area. But what is more important is the food. For RM68++ (RM38++ kids) the spread is truly magnificent.

Executive Chef Junious Dickerson took me for a grand tour round the stalls; despite the fact he's American, he knows the difference between his ulams and his kerabus, as he spent a few years in E Malaysia in one of the hotels there.

You know how it's often the case with buffets that you think there's a lot of food when you first go in but when you get down to it there's not really that much that you fancy after all. Well I'm telling you there will be PLENTY for you to enjoy here.

There's the cold starters inside with a load of rojak, salads, ulams and kerabus; then there are some Middle Eastern stuff together with Malay dishes from all over the country. Outside, there are even more stalls: Cucurs, Roti Jala, Lamb Briyani and a very passable Satay.

I thought the Malay-style Penang Laksa was awesome and as usual with buffets I have only one regret: no more tummy space, because as usual I have to leave enough room to try out the desserts, and with kuehs, baklavas, pastries and cakes, fruits and ice creams, it was 5-0 to my diet for the day.

They've even included Air Bandung, Ais Kacang, Teh and Kopi Tarik. I really take my hat off to them cos their buffets have always been quite outstanding, and it's no different this time round. Besides, there's a 4-pc band playing every night to make it an even more pleasant experience - the violinist is actually very good.

Over the next month they will be rotating the six menus every week, so if you are looking for somewhere to go and buka puasa with our Muslim friends, head for Eq.