Tuesday, March 31, 2009

Emily of Emerald Hill


On Sunday afternoon I took my mother and a girlfriend to see the nyonya play "Emily of Emerald Hill" at the Wawasan Open University in Jalan Sultan Ahmad Shah. I'm delighted to say it was quite packed - apparently after my article about Pearlly Chua, the Seremban-based actress who plays the eponymous main and only character, came out in Star Weekender a couple of weeks ago, there was a surge of response.


The whole thing took nearly two hours which included a 15-min break, and Pearlly (or should I say Emily) held us in thrall throughout it all. She was really very good, considering it was a monologue and there was only her on stage.


However, I think I was slightly misled during the interview - Pearlly had said that this Emily was going to be a sharper, nastier, scheming woman. In fact, she actually came across as an ordinary obviously ambitious Singaporean woman of the times (1950s) who, due to some unfortunate events, had her own fair share of tragedies. She just didn't strike me as a conniving cow at all, and in one particular scene where she was supposed to have controlled her son to the extent that he took his own life, it just didn't seem a good enough reason for him to have done so!


Having said that, Pearlly did very well. She portrayed the character going through her life, from current to, at times, her youth when she recounted how she entered the Gan household as a young bride, to her old age towards the end, very well. So much so that she made my mother cry - and that's not often. I can vouch for that!


If you ever have the chance to see the play, do. It's an insight into a typical Singaporean nyonya household, which was probably true of other Chinese households (OAOMs, as my British sister-in-law used to call us - Over Ambitious Oriental Mothers), and a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Well done Pearlly!

Saturday, March 28, 2009

(Fairly) INSTANT THAI LAKSA


Last night we were supposed to be good, so the plan was to do some chores which have been outstanding for a while (like pay bills and cheques in, return library books etc ...) then go for a swim (a gal's gotta keep fit), then head to Gurney for the launch of the new i-Phone.

Unfortunately, a few things got in the way: laziness for one ... the rains started, which put paid to any ambitious laps, then thoughts of having to dress up just to go and spend money was just too much, even with the lure of free food.

So I raided my fridge again, and what did I come out with? A fairly passable Thai Laksa, even if I say so myself!

When I lived abroad, rather like the Domestic Goddess herself Nigella, I always had Asian ingredients on standby either frozen, dried or tinned, and this habit hasn't died, so I had all the necessaries for the rempah: frozen serai (lemongrass), lengkuas, turmeric and even some chian hom (Thai Coriander); and from the store cupboard packet long-life coconut milk (a must-have), onions and belacan. All quickly prepared then zapped with my new Premier blender - it was quite good I have to say, and MUCH cheaper than the Braun I normally buy (I have at least 3-4 in the cupboard, but the blades for the blender parts have all broken!).

However much to my horror I realised I didn't have any CHILLI POWDER - used up the last lot a few months ago I guess. I like to use it because, apart from the luak (spiciness) it gives a really rich red to the curry that fresh or even dried chilli (unless you use a lot) doesn't have (although I know Thai laksa isn't supposed to be red). So it was back to the freezer again.

Tumised (fried up) the whole lot up in some oil until it "separated", then added some dried prawns (optional), a small tin of sardines (or salmon which I prefer but which I'd also run out of), water and the santan, together with a small can of evaporated milk after bringing to the boil. Just throw in a stock cube, a few tau hu pok (thanks again to my trusty old freezer) and fish balls (ditto), and there it was.
Eaten with some spaghetti - although instant noodles would have done - and a few mint leaves and Thai Basil (from my back garden), it was not bad at all. The colour wasn't brilliant, but it tasted quite good. Saved going out, and it was a great night in out of the rain. And I have to didn't spend a single sen!

However it's straight out to the grocer's tomorrow to stock up on some basic essentials once more I think!

Thursday, March 26, 2009

FANTHAIBULOUS




It's not often I rave about a place, but this unassuming little eatery in Penang's Prangin Mall is not to be sniffed at. The last time I went must have been at least 2-3 years ago, and this morning when I was taking a friend whose hubby has gone abroad for a week to lunch, I really fancied some good Thai food (my fav after all).

So we arranged to meet there - it's called Thai Station on the first floor of the back part of the sprawling noisy mall. I prefer this above any of the "designer" malls any time, because it's got CHARACTER, although I know many expats fear it cos it's a bit seedy. That, my friends, is where you get the best bargains and DIFFERENT things - not just stuff you can find in any mall in any part of the world!

Anyway I digress. So we met there and, being hungry, I rather over-ordered as is my wont when my eyes are bigger than my stomach. Ah, but was it worth it! Especially compared to some other places I have written or complained about.

Between the two of us we managed to tuck away a Papaya Salad, slice of steamed fish in Thai sauce (delicious - just the right amount of luak, sui and t'nee - spiciness, sourness and sweetness); a helping of roast pork and buah petai fried in sambal, and even a Red Curry (Panang) and rice. EVERYTHING was really good except perhaps the salad which used a riper red papaya instead of the usual young green which is crunchier - but it tasted good anyway. Even my friend who is a good cook of Thai food agreed. Just writing about it makes me lau nua (salivas flow) again!!
Then we complained about feeling too full, and promptly ordered a Chendol and Mango with Glutinous Rice. Like my sons used to say when they were little and didn't want to finish their main meal but wanted dessert, "Cos it was the right shape"!

And the whole fantastic meal cost a mere RM59. I'd go back there any time. Well done, and may you forever keep that chef!

Wednesday, March 25, 2009



I'm proud to announce that the VisitPenang website, of which I am the official foodie as mentioned in a previous post, was launched by none other than the Chief Minister himself Lim Guan Eng at the trendy G Hotel in Penang's Gurney Drive today.

It was a relatively swift event, with a fairly amusing speech by the CM, some of it touching upon the fact that, sometimes, new initiatives are criticised, meaning the Tiger Park that was announced recently. He went on to say that as these tigers had been bred in captivity, it was better to allow them to roam freely in a safe environment rather than be caged ... and said to the audience, "Of course YOU haven't been caged ..."


(Pause for dramatic effect)


"I have!"


That led to a rousing response from the audience - he was of course referring to his own incarceration not that long ago - ... "and it's not fun!"

After a short "BANG" to release confetti and some photo sessions, the CM and YB Danny Law went off for the press conference.

We the hoi polloi were left to mingle and chat amongst ourselves and partake of some "light refreshments" provided by the hotel. As Eddy Low, Chairman of ATAP (Association of Tourist Attractions of Penang) said, "I love their cheesecake here."

Me? I left to have a bite with a couple of mates - more of that later.

Tuesday, March 24, 2009

Not Worth it to the Power of Three (Cubing)


Whilst I was in KL a distant (but close) cousin kindly took pity on her country bumkin of a cuz and treated me to a lunch at Jaya One. We were going for Thai but unfortunately they were shut (sigh) so we decided to try Cubes, a Chinese, which boasted "Best London Duck" or words to that effect.

Situated on the first floor, its interior is quite a pleasant, nothing to shout about. However, they saw my cousin coming from afar, and recommended some quite expensive dishes and far too much of it, considering there were only three of us lunching.

We started with some jiu hoo (cuttlefish) which had been grilled till crispy then tossed with some veg - tasty but it would have been difficult to go wrong. Then we had to have their duck in pancakes, which was OK but there could have been more sauce and, having lived in London before, I didn't think they lived up to their motto. The Belly of Pork with Mui Chai was not bad (I know, I know, it's bad for you but only once in a while lah!) and some fried lotus roots in veg.

However they had also recommended steamed cod - and for the THREE of us they chose to serve us TWO large pieces when one, especially with the other dishes, would have sufficed. And it cost an astronomical RM88. That, I feel, was not on, especially when the fish, although very fresh, was bland and virtually tasteless. However being typically Chinese, we cannot stand seeing food go to waste, especially at that price, so we forced ourselves to finish most of it off. When we made a point of telling them they took away the remainder to "try" but still charged us anyway. For all that plus 3 glasses of water and a bowl of rice the total bill came to nearly RM200. They did however deign to give us some complimentary fruit for afters ... call me KS (kiam siap, kiasu .. whichever you like) but personally, I didn't feel it was worth it. I think it's one place I'll skip next time round.

Monday, March 23, 2009


Whew! Wot a weekend. First of all there was the drive down to KL on Saturday - the motorway was rather busy, I guess with all the southerners heading back after the school holidays. As usual there were the road crazies who drive as though they are the only ones on the road. Luckily there were no mishaps, and the traffic into KL was quite free-flowing.


That evening we had my father's 86th birthday dinner at the Jaya Palace in PJ. It was a small gathering, with close family (including M my older bro) and two of his oldest friends. Uncle Paul, his ex-boss, was, at the ripe old age of 92 still incredibly hale and hearty, and so with-it that he put us all to shame! He was the only one with the right to call my father "young man" ... I think Dad found it quite strange, as he's usually the oldest in the group!


We had a private room, but because there was a wedding on at the same time, it took quite a long time for the food to be served. We started at 8 and didn't leave till past midnight! Dishes included Braised Lamb (quite tender), Australian snow crab (only available at certain times of the year) cooked in two different ways (fried in chilli and steamed - the latter was much more appetising) and birthday noodles. All was tasty enough but not outstanding.


Highlight of the evening was when they switched off the lights and brought in his birthday cake together with the steamed peach buns to celebrate the occasion. Dad was quite touched - every year is more precious, and I know I'm very lucky to have both parents still with me.


Here's to many more, Dad!

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Greetings. It's been a while, but things have been a bit hectic, although I haven't done that much except write, write and write.

Yesterday was a particularly busy day, starting with a trip to town to do all the chores I'd been putting off. It included a trip to the Star office, and whilst I was there I thought I would pop by Little India and see what little treasures I could come up with.

I realised I should go there more often. Firstly, there's the entire separate subject of our bowels, and the fact that there you can get the cheapest psillium husk in town - about RM11 for a 400g pack. This stuff is fantastic ... talk about regular! But enough of that.

For a while now I've been thinking of adding to my current Magimix Food Processor, which although a professional chef's machine and cost an absolute arm and a leg isn't that brilliant when it comes to blending or making the sort of rempah (paste) that is required for our kind of cooking. Not that I cook that much, you might add and of course you're right. However, it's always a nice to have, and I have been known to do a mean Assam Laksa ...

Anyway I also read somewhere that if you want a good, energising breakfast that isn't too rich in calories (bang goes my Nasi Lemak and Hokkien Mee) then a power drink is great: put together a banana and whatever fruit is available, some cereal (muesli is good), semi-skimmed milk and blend then drink. HOWEVER the important thing is the thought of doing it first thing in the morning is a bit off-putting, so the hint is to prepare the container THE NIGHT BEFORE, then all you do is reach into the fridge (a spare pair of sunglasses strategically placed nearby will help, particularly if it's been a heavy night), pour in the milk and give it a blast.

Anyway I'd been looking for one for a while and finally decided on a PREMIER machine (apparently the Indian equivalent of PRESTIGE) - in Little India they cost just RM190-RM250, with THREE different-sized containers and spare blades. No more excuses. You'll see a trimmer, fitter, slimmer Helen Ong from now on. ... well, at least that's the plan!

I also bought myself a set of SIX stainless steel pots with lids and copper bottoms (good conduction) for just RM80 - they would have cost at least twice that in an upmarket shopping mall.

HOWEVER I've not used anything yet - no time - so the jury is still out. Watch this space, although it won't be till next week as I am off to KL shortly to celebrate my father's 86th birthday.

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Going Bananas







I've just had a quick business cum catch-up lunch with my good friend at the Parkroyal Resort in Batu Ferringhi.

I love the place - it's one of the hotels we used to enjoy staying at when we came back on hols from UK, before we moved here permanently. The colourful well-maintained grounds with the lovely palms, bougainvillia bushes and frangipanni trees are just gorgeous, the blue seas in the near horizon a beautiful backdrop to the large, clean pool, and the staff are friendly and attentive without being overfamiliar or too subservient. My boys used to adore the kids' club, and it was somewhere I was quite happy to leave them whilst I went gallivanting in town.

Cool Bananas itself is a more funky, casual eatery with inside and outside seating - under the fan outside allows you the best of both worlds, as the view is unbeatable.

The food? A good mix of east and west, and one of my favourite Vietnamese Beef Noodles in town - delish with a bunch of fresh Thai Basil and big teaspoonful of chili padi in soya sauce. However today I chose to be good (a gal's gotta watch her figure ... what figure you may ask) so opted for the Rocket with Grilled Chicken instead. Verdict? Tasty enough, but rather expensive for what it was (RM38++), although I love the taste of the nutty fresh green leaves. (This pix is of the "usual" Rocket with Prawns - I changed it to chicken.)

The Haagan Dazs Coffee Ice Cream with Chocolate Fudge Cake made up for it though!

NEGATIVELY POSITIVE .. or is it the other way round?

I've just finished 3 days as a judge at the Penang Battle of the Chefs. Wonderful experience, although sad to say as a very junior judge I didn't really do that much. But more about that to come.

Today I wanted to respond to some comments I've been getting from various parties about the poor food served at some places I've recommended.

Firstly, thank you for even reading my articles, let alone taking the trouble to visit the places I've written about. Any writer will tell you that we are all basically insecure.

Secondly, please let me explain that I do TWO types of articles: paid-for advertorials (Star Metro North) and others. As far as the former is concerned, they are not recommendations per se, so I cannot write my true opinion. HOWEVER regular readers read between the lines, and know that I will not rave about something if it's not good. I consider it my job just to tell you the place exists. Having said that I always try to let the proprietor know if I don't think it's up to scratch. Whether they choose to do something about it is their prerogative: generally they will try and improve, but you'll be surprised at the number who think they know best and refuse to change their recipe/taste/menu etc.

The other category is in my blog like what you are reading now and my fortnightly column in Star Sunday Metro. Here, nobody pays for any write-up, and it is where I have the leeway to write, although if truth be told I can still not be too frank as it could mean whether a place survives or not. And like I always say, Penang is a small place. I want to be welcomed when I visit an establishment, not have the door slammed in my face or, it doesn't bear thinking about, worse!

On top of that readers should understand that when I do a formal food review it is not incognito, and therefore the food is/should be the best they can come up with. And although admittedly they should not drop their standards for paying clients, sometimes, unfortunately, they do. C'est la vie - that's life.

I hope this clarifies the position, but as Star Metro North have now decided in their wisdom to use inhouse reporters to do their food reviews anyway, I am no longer obliged to always provide positive feedback on the establishments I visit - so be warned! I may now sharpen my claws ... !!

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Thai Takes




IT'S NOT THAT we haven't anything better to do, but a group of friends got together and decided to make a quick overnight trip to Haadjai - what else can a foodie do but agree to join them. Thai food is, after all, my absolute favourite cuisine.

After what seemed like forever (it's fun, but much slower, with a large group) we finally checked into the hotel and were out again to have our first Thai meal of the year at "59", a Thai-Teochew restaurant in town.

They suggested "less spicy" food for us "foreigners" but we soon put them right ... "No lah! Must be THAI ... just a bit less chilli!". Ya we chickened out slightly. However the food was really quite good. We had Steamed Fish Thai Style with the green sour chilli paste (mmm just thinking about it made me salivate); claypot prawns and glass noodles; taukua with leeks, and braised trotters. The only slight disappointment was the Belacan Kang Kong - ours is much better in Penang.

A friend who has Thai blood was a bit disappointed as she was expecting THAI Thai food, not Teochew Thai food. However, I think there is very little distinction between the two: they just eat it much hotter, but the food is very similar. And considering there were 11 of us and 4 bottles of beer had been consumed together with sugar cane water (their speciality), the bill of about 2000 baht (approx RM200) was very reasonable.

That evening, we went to a seafood place: much too much food; slightly cheaper but not as good I felt. The fried rice was very disappointing (no "wok hei"), and the chilli crab didn't have much aroma although the seafood was fresh.

On the way back we stopped at the border for a quick lunch: fried rice, mee and bee hoon. Again, not really bril. I think they are good for some things (their sour and spicy dishes) but we knock the socks off them for others.

Still, overall, I can't wait to go back for another Thai Take!

Monday, March 9, 2009

Spaghetti a la What Leftovers Can I put In?

Being a foodie, it behoves me to eat out as much as I can, so it was quite a pleasure to have, for once, nothing on last night. It was wonderful to not have to get ready to go out yet again ... except for the fact that I had to cook!

So I peered into the fridge, which as you can imagine can be eerily empty, as we so seldom eat at home. There was a bit of leftover cooked spaghetti from way back when. AHA! That was a start. I took out everything I thought I could use: chopped fresh garlic (I usually process a load then stick it into as airtight a container as possible in the freezer or fridge - usually lasts for a few weeks), dried herbs de provence (in this case oregano and thyme), some fresh but rapidly-going-soft tomatoes, a tin of chopped tomatoes and a half empty pack of smoky bacon. Final touch was a small block of cheese.

I kid you not - Nigella Lawson herself would have been proud of me. Fried the chopped garlic in a bit of olive oil, then added the bacon and fried till almost crisp. Bunged in the tinned tomatoes and a little bit of water, cooked until it reduced slightly then added the sliced fresh tomatoes, herbs and seasoning (salt and pepper and any left-over puree).

Finally, in went the leftover spaghetti, a good stir and Bob, as they say, was my uncle. All that took less than five minutes - are you or are you not impressed with Speedy Gonzales! Eaten with some grated Cheddar cheese on top, it was, to put it immodestly, a raging success.

Moral of the story is: always have the following in your larder as they make excellent stand-by ingredients and don't go off: tinned tomatoes, pasta, bacon (can be frozen), and olive oil. The cheese is optional but lasts for a while; Parmesan even longer.

Alternatively, sprinkle the cheese on top then place under a hot grill till it melts and goes slightly brown. MM mm!

Sunday, March 8, 2009


FAME AT LAST!

Watching people on TV, you never think of the amount of preparation that goes on behind the scenes, and the gift of the gab it requires ... until it was my turn that is. Although I’ve been featured on penangnettv, it’s not quite the same thing.
It all started when a call came in from the Parkroyal Resort in Penang, “Chef Wan is here to film two episodes from his Oleh Oleh Chef Wan series featuring Barbeques on “The Art of Entertaining”, I was told. “He would like to talk to you about your book.”
Well, anything for a laugh, eh, so along I trot to meet one of the most talked about, and talkative, celebrity chefs and TV personalities in the country.
Chef Mansor Hj Abdul, Sous Chef for the resort, would be demonstrating Chargrilled Lobster with Kerabu Baby Mangor, after which Chef Wan would himself be preparing an Ayam Panggang Pencok.
After the producer shouted out, “Ready ... 5-4-3-2-1), Cheffie (or so he refers to himself) started talking. And kept on talking. In fact, I swear he doesn’t stop to draw breath! Once the lobster was duly chargrilled and the baby mango duly julienned and kerabued, there was a break. Cheffie came over to continue our discussion ... or so I thought.
What he actually said was, “Helen, I’d like you to appear with me when I cook the chicken during the second part of the programme so we can tell us all about your book.” Of course, Chef, no problem, I replied calmly. Or that’s what I should have said to him.
Instead, I froze up and started panicking. Yikes! Then he casually added,“We’ll do it in Malay”! Double yikes! My Malay is pigeon at the best of times; for me to carry on a discussion about it on national TV was, to put it mildly, AAARRGHH!
Things began to take on a surreal quality when the soundman came up to fix the mike on me – until that point, I was still entertaining faint hopes that it might have just been an off-the-cuff comment and nothing would come out of it.
Suffice it to say that it wasn’t a disaster (read: I didn’t make a completely fool of myself!). I wasn’t too nervous, because Chef Wan could, as mentioned, talk the hind leg off a donkey and therefore cover any awkward silences – and more if necessary – and I oohed and aahed at what I hope were appropriate times, I failed to make use of the air time he so generously allotted me to promote the book.
(It didn’t help that just before the countdown someone mentioned that it was OK, as the thing was being shot outdoors, I had an excuse for a shiny face. That’s all well and good, but I spent half the time wondering whether the hot lights, in the already balmy afternoon humidity, were going to make me glow even more.) So much for my 15 minutes of fame, but thanks all the same Cheffie!
What was very successful though was the food: the lobster was delightful, and the chicken tres delicious, its marinade an excellent combination of creamy santan and spicy rempah. At least allow me to take a bit of credit here for the very good kacauing (stirring) that I did whilst Cheffie talked.

This particular programme of Oleh Oleh Chef Wan will be aired on TV9 on Saturday 15 March at 12.30pm. The full article may be printed by Star ... if I can persuade them to!

Dining Blues

Last night we helped a good friend, Nick, commiser ... sorry I mean celebrate his birthday, and together with his wife and two other couples, set off for No.32 for a good time.

One thing you can't fault about the place is its ambiance. Apart from the fact that it is in a really gorgeous, beautifully-restored old house set right next to the sea in town, the rooms are generously proportioned with high ceilings and impressive windows. The floor-length curtains just add to the overall image of elegant, slightly ostentatious sophistication.

Another thing I like about this restaurant, one of the foremost so-called "fine dining" places in Penang, is the waiting staff. One can't find much to fault in it; they are generally well-trained, offering discreet yet unsycophantic service.

Then there's the menu. It offers a good yet not uber-large choice (I tend to get a bit suspicious of places with too many items on the menu), and even then if you can't decide, opt for their Set Dinner of salad, soup of the day, mains, dessert and coffee. The price depends on what mains you go for but they are all really quite excellent value, and it was something that half the group went for.

I wish I had too, because in my bid to show some self-restraint, I decided to be good. After all, one can't always be sensible (especially when I am doing an "official" food review), so now was the time to cut down a bit.

So I just went for a soup and a pasta. Ha! I hear you snort - restraint?! It should have been a clear consomme and a salad. Ya well - a gal's gotta eat, right?!!

Although the oxtail soup was quite respectable, a tasty local version of it with more spices than the western version, the Linguini with Slipper Lobster wasn't. In fact, it was quite disappointing, and not something I'd come to expect from the establishment. The sauce was watery (pasta sauces should always coat the strands well - in fact that's a prerequisite) and tasteless, even if it did come with what was probably a whole slipper lobster cut into chunks. It was poor value for money, and not something I shall be recommending; definitely not to be reordered ever again - unless they change their recipe of course.

I still enjoyed the evening nevertheless; the 4-pc band did a more than average job of some favourite jazz numbers, and it was good being with friends. Look on it positively: at least it helped to keep me on the straight and narrow and not over-indulge!

Saturday, March 7, 2009

All Systems Go

At last! My lovely son has managed to work out what went wrong, and it’s all systems are GO! (Apparently I was updating a different blogspot or something ... technology! Tchuh!)

If you’ve been reading my articles in The Star and The Expat magazine, you’ll know that I’ve been actively promoting all manner of things to do with this lovely island – Penang.

What you may not know is that I’ve been asked by the Penang State Government to be their official “foodie”, a great honour for me. This has come about not just because of my book Great Dining in Penang (which has been a great success btw - if you haven't got one now's the time to do it, because there are only a few copies left) but also because of my writing, so a big “THANK YOU” to the dear reader(s) out there who take the trouble to read – and react to – my stuff.

If you have any suggestions about what/who/where things are to write about, PLEASE do let me know - leave me a comment (now that I am actually up and running properly!) - and I will do my best to investigate/write about/publicise it.

And please, do sign my Guest Book.

Check out the State Government's new website
http://www.visitpenang.gov.my/ and you’ll be able to read more about all the happening things in Penang.

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

PENANG FOOD FEST

One of the problems I’ve had is time but then hasn’t everyone. However the other is more genuine – I’m not very good at this technical stuff, and as my sons are away they haven’t been able to offer much guidance. The last few I’ve tried to post have all disappeared and I cannot get them back!

Anyway I’m definitely going to try to be more vigilant now, and promise sincerely to write more often.

Last year I was honoured to be a judge at the Penang “Chefs’ Challenge”, and this year they have asked me once more, but this time in the 12th “Battle of the Chefs”.

It promises to be exciting, especially as we have (to date) over 400 registered participants - students, cook, chefs and F & B service staff from 97 organisations (restaurants, hotels, colleges, associations, individuals) from Singapore, Thailand, Indonesia and Malaysia, and first time entries from Taiwan and South Korea.

There will be more than 30 international Judges coming from various countries: Thailand, Singapore, Hong Kong, China and Malaysia, Taiwan, South Korea, Myanmar and even the US.

There are many classes of competition, from fruit and vegetable carving to live cooking, a total of 639 entries have been registered so far.

It should prove to be exciting and entertaining.

There will also be an i-Foodex exhibition, with over 144 stalls demonstrating the latest in cookware, and in the evening, over 100 stalls cooking up a storm – all the favourite foods from around Malaysia.

The event will take place in PISA from 13-15 March.

Look forward to seeing you all there!